Monday 8 September 2014

My trip to Dharwad,Hampi & its surroundings

My visit to CMDR, Dharwad, Karnataka, was very interesting and it started from Delhi itself. The flights from Delhi Airport were delayed for hours due to the heavy fog after 7.00am on 29the January 2009. My flight from Delhi to Mumbai by Jet Airways was delayed for five hours and so, could not pick up the connecting flight from Mumbai to Hubli the only flight by Kingfisher. So, waiting for hors from 8’o clock in the morning till 5’o clock in the evening I took a flight to Bangalore and reached Institute of Social and Economic Change, Nagarbhavi, at Bangalore at 10.30 in the night. The taxi took one and a half hour to reach ISEC from Bangalore Airport. It is a distance about 55 kilometer. I am grateful to the Assistant Registrar , ISEC Mr. Narayana  who arranged accommodation and dinar in the guest house of the ISEC , Bangalore. I had to reach Dharwad on 30th January by 11’oclock in the morning by any means as I had to be there in the meeting of the selection of the ICSSR Institutional Doctoral Fellowship. Early in the morning on 30th I took the flight From Bangalore to Hubli. The distance from Hubli to Dharwad is about 25 kilometer.

Dharwad is an hub of intellectual community. It appears the intellectuals have searched a peaceful area and settled down to pass their retired life. Their contribution could be more to develop research aptitude of the students of this region. However the Dharmasthala Society ‘s contribution towards the academic and professional Education is amazing.

My flight for Delhi were on 2nd February’09. So I had two days in spare the 31st January and 1February and I did not want to waste the opportunity. As per my character I can not sit idle. So, on 30th itself I discussed with the people about the places of natural and historical as well as religious importance where I could reach within the available time. Ultimately, I dropped the idea of visiting Badami where caves of red rocks are worthwhile to see but due to the scarcity of time, I finalized to visit Hampi and next day to Gokarna. I am grateful to Prof.Karanth who helped me with the company of a research scholar of the CMDR and arranged taxi also for me.

So, on 31st January Dr. Narayana Billawa came to my room 201 at Hotel Mandar Regency, College Road, (Dharwad) early in the morning but I was not ready by that time as I could not get up due to my hectic Journey from Delhi to Dharwad on both the days 29th and 30th January. So, I could start by 7.30 a.m. by car, only for the journey to Hampi. On the way I observed that number of Educational institutions like J.S.S.College, S.D.M. College of Engineering, S.D.M. Medical College, S.D.M. Dental College on Hubli Dharwad Road. It is a great contribution rather real religious efforts are being done by Dharmasthala Society. K.L.S. Society has also an Engineering College on this Highway. Behind the CMDR, Ambedkar Nagar, there is a lovely view of Navloor Lake. Another big Lake on Hubli Dharwad Road is Humkal Lake . Ministry of Tourism, Karnataka State may explore and attract tourists by giving a little bit attention on it. 
 On reaching Hubli I given Phone call to Dr.Malvika M.Deshpande, (Principal SJMVS Arts & Commerce Pre-University College for Women, J.C.Nagar) who visited my office about two years ago and given her visiting card with an invitation to contact her whenever I get chance to visit Hubli. I promised her that in the returning from Hampi we would reach to her place as we were already being delayed for Humpi. Hubli is a lovely place for marketing, it is a commercial city.
I was in hurry to see Hampi. From Hubli we took a turn towards Hubli Gadak Road. Here I saw a huge queue of trucks and come to know that due to the mining of Iron-Ore these trucks are here for loading the ore. From Gadak to Ballari this scene is available in continuation. This is a drought prone area and main crops of this region are Jowar, maize, due to the scarcity of rain. Rice, sugar cane is not grown here. The rice and sugarcane are grown onward to this area of Koppal and Hospet due to the mercy of the Holy river Tunga- Bhadra The soil of this region is red and at certain area the colour of the soil is blackish red where the cotton is also grown..Hospet is a small town but the market is quite good. After Hospet we reached Hampi.
{*This was written in the month of February, 2009. Since then lots of changes have been done by the then visionary DG of ASI on bringing the situation before him. }

….HAMPI (Karnataka) is the historical area since Pauranic period (pre-historical period). This area was the capital of Bali (elder brother of Sugreev) as per the Chalukya’s inscription of 7th Century AD,  of his empire known as Pampa Kshetra about which mentioned in Ramayna. It is situated on the southern bank of the river Tungabhadra–{Ganga moola / Tunga moola  ( Chikmungalur district, Karnataka):This is also called as Varaha parvata. This is the birth place of Tunga river, Bhadra river and Nethravathi river. Nethravathi river goes to west and merges in Arabian sea. Tunga river and Bhadra river goes in two seperate directions and joins at Koodli to form Tungabhadra river. Pampa is another name of Tungabhadra . Industrial pollution has damaged the Tungabhadra river. Industries and mining located on its banks in the Chikkamagalur, Shimoga, Davangere, Haveri, Bellary, Koppal and Raichcur Districts of Karnataka and Kurnool and Mahaboobnagar in Andhra Pradesh Tunga Bhadra River.}. and is surrounded by rocky mountains and its name in Ramayana is mentioned Kishkindha Parvat. So, this city is important not only for the historical point of view that this has been the capital of Vijaynagar Samrajya (1336 –1571) but it is very much linked with the point of view of Hindu mythology. Anjani Parvat where lord Hanumana was born is situated on the other side of the Bank of Tungbhadra River and the Lord Hanumana arranged friendship of Lord Rama with Sugreev which helped him in rescuing his wife Sita.

The beauty of the mountain range at Humpi is like that that super power engineers have put blocks of rocky stones piling on each other and have made a beautiful scenery, a pictorial view. The beauty of this place starts from the entry point itself as the two huge stones at a distance of three meter making a gateway to this heritage.

There are number of temples of beautiful architectures which have not been the victims of political rivalry of the Hindu and Muslim rulers of the surrounding area in the past history but these have been the victims even at present time of political/religious/ regional/ or corruption in the system. No due care is being given to the historical temples to this pictorial sight, a different look from other sights. Even at some places the concept of hygiene has no meaning, the concept of maintenance is far away. The underground temple of Lord Shiva(PATALESWARA Temple) is a unique piece of architecture in which we have to walk down under the water to reach the idol of Shivalinga. Another uniqueness of this temple is that the roof of the temple is below the level of the surface of the ground. ….. However there was no proper maintenance / cleanliness of the temple but the lawn of the temple are better.   

We returned Dharwad from Hampi around 11.30pm and we did not take diner, as we wanted to reach Dharwad as soon as possible as we took some more time at Hospet to visit Tunga-Bhadra Dam. Nothing was available in the Mandhar Hotel. Then the Driver Manjunath who have become friendly by this time took me on the taxi and roam around the near by market area but there was no use as all the restaurant were closed. As I returned to Mandhar, the manager of the Hotel asked me humbly, ‘Sir, would you like to have some rice with curd that is available only’. I became happy. The manager of the Hotel was so nice that he asked me “ Sir, you may kindly go to your room, the diner would be served to you in your room.” It is matter of luck and God is so kind that I get lovely people whenever I visit any place.

Next day morning schedule was to have trip to Gokarna. Earlier I had made a plan to visit the caves of Badami but my companion and the Driver suggested if I visit towards Gokarna would be more worthwhile. So, on 1st February’2009 early in the morning I got up and became ready by 6’oclock and I was waiting for my companions in the lobby of the Hotel. We started at 6.30am for Marikamba Devi Temple. At the Ist instant we have to reach Hubli. On reaching Hubli we had a Breakfast in a restaurant. Now we took turn from Hubli to Dharwad Road. This road have two joints one way towards Kallagadki and other joint goes towards Sirsi touching Ellapur.We moved towards Sirsi .On the way the important places were Nandahadi, Manchikeri, Umachagi ( this is the Brahaman dominated area) and then we reached Sirsi the place where the Marikamba temple is situated. This is very holy place of this region. 



We did worship as per our traditional Hindu culture and proceeded to NawJog Jalpath water fall which is generally known as Jogpal in short.


 This is near Sitapur, it is about fifty kilometer from Marikamba Temple. Only a learned poet can explain the beauty of this fall. We were almost at equal height of the four streams of the water fall on the opposite side and the falls were falling down in a beautiful narrow but deep pond from a height of one hundred fifty feet. The beauty of this place is on peak during the rainy season and just after that. I have seen many waterfalls but it was in a very closer view. The fall is surrounded by the hard rock Mountains.

 From Novjog Jalpath we have to move around one hundred kilometer to reach Gokarna. Forests, and orchard of cashew nuts, fields of sugarcane, surround the route. This is very fertile part of southern Karnataka also known as western Ghat. I have also seen the plantation of herbal and medicinal plants. In this region people are rich as well as educated. Near Gokarna people also store salty water from the stream of the sea to make salt on commercial level.

On reaching Gokarna we reached at the seashore where I bought a swimming costume, as I could not stop myself without taking bath. I am very much fond of taking bath in the sea and enjoy the strong ripples of the sea. After taking bath we reached to the Gokarna temple. In this temple the discipline is very strict ,following the ancient Indian traditions that you have to inter in the temple without top except trouser/dhoti is permitted. There is no Sivalinga as usually seen in all temples of lord Shiva. The worshiper has to put their hand in a hole in main worship place of the temple to realize by touching the Shivalinga under the water in the hole. It is myth that this Shivalinga is of the time of Ravana ….. The same story is heard in North at Gola Gokaran Nath and some place in Bihar also. But, apart from this controversy the main important thing is belief of the presence of God. The part of Shivalinga, which was sapareted by Ravana in anguish, was gone to Mandukeswara near the beach, twenty-kilometers form Gokarna. There is also a beautiful temple where I could not visit as the sun was setting down and we had to cover about two hundred kilometers to reach Dharwad. However this time we had to take the straight route instead of Kumta and Vergi through which route we had reached Gokarna, we adopted the National High way No.–17 : Gokarna-Magalore Road. On going about ten kilometers and reached Ankola from where we took a right turn for Hubli through Ellapur.

It was really a nice journey.

  
``(V.N.Sondhi)
                                                                                                                                                             06.02.2009

Recently (after march 24,2009, Archeological Survey of India have started taking initiative as a policy matter, to give the shape of good days of these temples/ruins of Hampi as the some other monuments viz.Lal Qila , Qutub Minar, Tajmahal etc., are being given attention on their  repairing and to maintainance.
                                                                                                V.N.Sondhi

                                                                                                27.03.2009
My 2nd visit to this place was really interesting and worthwhile >



Re: ‏
From:
Director General ASI (directorgeneralasi@gmail.com)
Sent:
03 March 2009 15:24PM
To:
VIJAY NATH SONDHI (manuansondhi@hotmail.com)
Cc:
brmani@hotmail.com
Dear Shri Sondhi,

Many thanks for your valuable suggestions in connection with the Hampi Heritage Site.  I am directing the concerned officials of my organization to look into this matter and see that the premises are kept clean.  I would also be paying a visit to Hampi in the middle of the next month to have a comprehensive review of the ongoing and proposed developmental activities.  I would be very much pleased to meet with you there.  I would let you know about my programme well in advance.

With regards,

Yours sincerely,
(K.N. Shrivastava)
x                 x                           x
Reply

To,
Director General
ASI

It is a great honour for me that I would get a chance to have your company. I am submitting an application to the Member Secretary of my Office to permit me to avail this rare opportunity and to help with to and fro travel ( in case it is possible).

You belong to the ambitions of our great former President of India Dr.A.P.J.Abdul Kalam > “ ..we need leaders of creative leaders….” He was the speaker in the annual  lecture organized by ICSSR on Vikaram Sarabhai memorial award arranged in 2004.

It would be a great achievement for me if I become a tool in the exercise of some development process gets acceleration in the right direction without disturbing the nature of the Architecture and culture of the heritage.
Another point I would like to point out that there is sight of market in the ruins and that could be developed like Mina Bazar in the Lal Qila in Delhi and the State/Centeral Govt. could earn rent on allotment of the shops viz.on five years lease and renewable further subject to some conditions. …..to sale handicraft articles of the region . And in this manner the artisans of that area would get their market /employment due to the development in this direction as it will increase Tourism. The ponds should be cleaned and given its original shape and make it attractive. ……….This will also increase communal harmony ……..
The Museum has no proper arrangement of Light to read the details of the antiques.
Qutub Minar in Delhi is still having attractive view because proper maintenance is being taken to care it.
As I get approval from my office I will let you know the details of my arrival.

Thanks again and with regards,


                                                                   Yours faithfully
                                                                         

V.N.Sondhi





On reaching Hubli on 24th March,09, An Excavation Supervisor, Hospet (Mr. Rajesh) came to pick up me and took me to Dharward ASI Office where I met with Superintendent Archeologist Mr.M.Mahadevaiah and oter officers  and discussed with them on the issue on the development of Hampi heritage. From Dharwad they took me Hospet where DG ASI had called me to meet. I stayed in a 3 star Hotel “Malligi” on 24 th evening to 25 afternoon and left for Hubli at 4’O Clock in the evening on 25th by train as My flight was in the morning on 26th March,09 and the distance from Hospet to Hubli is run of more than four hours and so I did not want to take risk and for this I had to make payment of my stay at Hubli and taxi charges from Hotel Kamath to the Airport at Hubli. Other expenses of my stay and taxi etc  were the hospitality provided by ASI.

I had a great honour to attend the meeting with DG,ASI where number of officers of their department and VIP from the Ministery of state tourism were present in the meeting held on 25th March 2009 at Office of ASI, Hospet. It was a rare opportunity for me that I discussed with the DG on the subject, during lunch organized at Hotel Malligi.
DG ASI, Mr.K.N.Srivastava is a very dynamic person. He has taken number of policy decision on the internal management as well as taken decision keeping the views of the Department of tourism and given direction to start the development work within four weeks.

                                                                                    (V.N.Sondhi)
                                                                                    27.03.2009

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