My visit to Panna the historicand religious city of MP

Panna

I visited Panna via Jabalpur- Katni in 2007 when I was busy in searching a work place ( the village to stay for teaching to the children of remote area) for me to utilize my time after my retirement in 2011. I came to know about the diamond mines in Panna but could not visit as I was not familiar with the geography of the place and the people of Panna and above all my objective at this juncture was different. However I observed beautiful Samadhi Sthals of the Royal family. The person who called me was busy on that day in his office so he could not spare time and therfore I could not devote my time for my purpose of visit. I reached Panna afternoon and I stayed in Hotel Raj Laxmi. Till evening I roamed around the small city and planned to visit Khajuraho next day as it was very near from Panna just about 30 kilometers.

I was interested to visit the picnic spot Chopda which  was 4-5 kilometers from the Bus stand which could take two hours and I had to pick up the bus of 7.30 AM, in the morning. And so I could not visit that place.There is no direct transport for Khajuraho from Panna. This is a common problem in Mddhya Pradesh.We have to take private bus  or Jeep for Bamitha and then we have to pick up another auto riksha  or jeep from Bamitha to Khajuraho. If you can spend money, there is no problem in hiring taxi.

On the way to Bamitha from Panna, there is a Bhairon temple on right side of the road where no one is allowed to stay for a longer time. This place is hilly region surrounded by wild animals. After that I saw the Rajgarh Palace on the top of the hill. It is said that that there is tunnel from this palace to Mahoba.

From Bamitha I took auto and paid Rs.10/- for Khajuraho. On observing the sculpture on the walls of the temple I realized that these are the magnified form of the statues of Khajurao which I had seen in the form of toys in the market . In few hours it was not possible to see the beauty of these temples . Actually we should spend one week if we want to observe and enjoy as well as study the architecture/history of this place.This was my first visit to Khajuraho. This is the place for the people who are art lovers. Otherwise people have different angles of vision.In 18^th century, the rulers of Chandel Dynesty had built one more temple in the premises of these temples but the delicacy of the art of old temple is not comparable. This temple was locked. It appears that only the members of Royal family are the custodian of this temple  as the other old temples were under the supervision of security guards of ASI. However, to reach here for an ordinary tourist is very tiring,uncomfortable and time consuming also.

I had to return Jabalpur on the same day. I asked to the people about the convenient route. They told me both the routes : Panna- katni- Jabalpur  ( as  I came) and another route: Khajuraho-Chatarpur and then another bus for Jabalpur via Damoh-Narsinghpur. The second route is longer. During my journey in MP, I experienced that the people are so nice and have lots of patients in telling the information about the route of the Journey.

My next visit must be exploring  with the aspects of social and natural sciences.

Some important observations:

There is no facility of Public Transport to reach most of the monuments. However this is a common problem in MP state. The Department of Road Transport was buried long back in this State. The Departments of Archaeology and Tourism may study jointly and find out some solution for the tourists.

The main credit of poor road transport goes to the state Govt. which has encouraged to road transport Mafias. This private sector is exploiting the commuters by overloading creating suffocation and this is very common during the peak season (marriage and festival seasons) without considering the hygiene.  I am not talking about exceptions. In Jabalpur region the main private transporters are Tiwari Brothers, Chaurasiya Group; In Indoor  region-Shukla Brothers; in Panna-Khajuraho-Chattarpur region-Garg/Aggarwal Group and Bundela, in Dewas rgion –Sisodiya Group etc. are having their Samrajya and state transport  is almost closed as these transporters are politicians (viz.Rohani, Vishnohi, Tiwari etc...)or having influence in politics.

On some routes a bus takes about two hours for covering a distance of 40 km  A very limited class of tourists are visiting spots with their own vehicle or taxi/Air. Otherwise most of the tourists visiting with time consuming and uncomfortable buses associated with other modes of transport viz. three wheeler- tempo. {Very limited good buses on some routes you may find.}

I had an impression as per talk with the interviewer named Mr.Aashlesh that Department of MP tourism had arranged a  survey by a private body on tourist sites to have views of tourists in 2007 , and this I came to know from that person , who was taking interviews from the tourists at Khajuraho. I gave him the following suggestions to high light in his report:

“ There should be three types of Buses in the state to cover all the segments of people:-

1.     The present form of buses and bus routes should continue to provide transport facilities to the people of interior villages as it is also very important. However the state transport should also share with private transporters permitted under State Transport Authority for sharing the crowed and be strict for hygienic means of transport.

2.     The State Transport with the coordination of the Department of Tourism should start short Ltd. Bus Routes point to point AC buses for tourist sites to avoid killing of time and provide comfort for the commuter/tourist who can afford the price and Luxury buses for the average/upper middle income groups.

4.     As mentioned above the state transport with the coordination with the Department of Tourism should start state road transport  and share with undertaking of private transport for short route Luxury buses for tourist sites to avoid killing of time and provide comfort for the commuter/tourist. This would be more attractive for middle class passengers/tourists.

5.   The Department of Tourism should do a survey and study the round mini circles for covering of the heritage/ tourist sites and start their own controlled comfortable Buses and earn revenue.

But this is possible only after following Transparency tools in implementing the above.

The question is whether this is possible in the present political scenario? Every Political party is trying to take jump off the way.

Our country needs Electoral Reforms before any Reforms.
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08.04.2015
 My second trip to Panna

This is my second trip to Panna after years together. The difference in this trip is that I am going this time by my car. So, I have full liberty and choice to stay at any point of my choice. I called my friend Asim the resident of Ajaigarh Taheseel,District Panna for his company. This time we taken the route from Jabalpur to Panna via Chatarpur instead of Katni. From Jabalpur we taken the Damoh road from Damoh Naka. The important points on this route are Katangi,Singrampur ( this place has special importance as the Singaurgarh Fort of Gond rular Raja Sangramsingh is just 10 km in its forest known as Rani Durgawati Forest reserve), Nohata, Bada Malehara,Gulganj,Chatarpur, Basari Village. 

                              (Entrance gate to Palace of Basari village)

(Basari Palace Hotel)

(Entrance of the Palace)

         
                                     ( The beautiful huge pond behind the palace)

The decedent of Jamindar of Basari Shri Shankar Prasad Singh has renovated his ancestor’s palace keeping its original architecture and converted it into a hotel in this remote area.This is an umique example to protect ancestor’s property even in the village in this modern time.

After spending about one hour in the beautiful palace, we moved onward journey via Ganj,Bameetha( from Bameetha Khajuraho is only 11 km on the adjoining road towards left),Chandar Nagar , Maldda, crossing the cne river bridge at Maldda we reached Tiger Reserve area of panna. On this area there is an important temple of Bhainro Tek where each and every vehicle stops to pay homage to the deity. 

Then we moved onward to Diamond mine(DMCP) and then Panna City.

Panna is surrounded by natural beauty and treasure of mineral resources and raw Diamond mines. Beside this it is a religious place and famous for magnificent size of temples with beautiful architecture.Most of the temples are of Lord Krishna and Radha. Few of the famous temples are Prannath temple,Jugal kishore temple and Baldev temple.

(Pran Nath Mandir, Panna)

                                                                (Baldawo Mandir)

The most interesting thing of Baldev temple is the utilization of temple campus for social activities viz. Dharamshala for piligrims, school for children amed Maharani Laxchmibai School and Law College.

The office of Taheseeldar and the court of Panna is in the historical building of Mahendra Bhawan.

                                                 (Mahendra Bhawan)

We could not see the Diamond mines as the permission to enter the premises of the mines is obtained only through the linkages with Government official of the mines. So, this had disappointed me and then I desired to visit a tribal village of remote area where I could make a plan to stay there for some time to teach their children. My friend Asim Khan who is the resident of the Ajaigarh took me to Khajari Kolar few km. before the Pandav Fall, in the left side road of the Panna - Khajuraho Highway. Mr. Narayan Yadav  of this place became very happy to know my purpose of visit his place. If, the the place of my stay is arranged by him, there is probability to go there for a couple of weeks.

On being free from Khajari-Kolar, we went to Pandav Fall. It is on the way to National Park of Tiger Reserve. The Pandav Fall is under the Tiger Reserve.Te passage to the fall is spread in vast open area about half a kilometer. 

However this open area is supposed to be covered with dense forest to the beautiful sight. The Forest Department of the Tiger Reserve should take care for the development of the forest and protection too. However the Panna Tiger Reserve is charging Rs. 50/- per head and Rs.500/- for the personal car. Charging this much money the department should be careful  towards the maintenance of the campus beauty .

On walking about  half a Kilometer in the campus, we reached Pandav Fall from where the water falls into the deep and big size of pond known as Pandav Fall.

(Pandav Fall)

                                                                                                                      On getting down about 150 steps of the hill we reached the pond. 

(Pond of Pandav Fall)

 Here is a cave and it is a myth that Pandavs of Mahabharat had their stay for some time.

(Pandav cave along the pond)

 The most amazing thing is the droplets of water pouring down from the roots of the plants and trees are taking a shape of rain which explains how the trees are important for water conservation process.This big pond is surrounded by greenery.

After spending two hours we moved back to Ajaigarh .

On 12thApril,2015, we left Ajaigarh for Jabalpur early in the morning at 7’O clck by the same route via Chatrpur. After moving few km in he Ajaigarh Ghati, i observed a a beautiful Bawli about 50 meter deep in the

                                           ( Bawli i the Forst of Ajaigarh -Panna road)

 forest on the left side of the road where few rooms almost new structure were also there.I came to know that these rooms were made for the the CRPF people for security of the the people passing through this route as the thee was terror of dacoits in this region few years back. After a casualty of CRPF person, the team of CRPF gone away from this place and the dacoits are also not coming to this place. The location of the Bawli and the beauty of the forest in its surrounding is marvellous.

After crossing Chatrpur, Meetha village, we reached Dargawon Tigadda from where adjoining road on the left side goes towards Bheem Kund travelling 12 km from this turnning. We taken this turn and crossing Dargawaon, Bhujpur(Janpad Panchayat Bakshwaha), Bhibharwan, we reached Bheem kund Tiraha. From this Tiraha we have to move on the left turn road and moving about three km we reached Bheem Kund. 

 At this place there is the Shri Narayan Devsthan Sanskrit Vidyalay which is giving learning of Sanskrit to the students. A small hotel of Lalit group of Panna is also here.
From the Vidyalay campus it is difficult to imagine that a huge size of cave and kund (just like a pond) would be in its surroundings. We moved few steps downwards we entered into the cave where we have to get down a staircase of about 50 steps to reach the deep  Bheem Kund.

 The appearance of the crystal clear water was dark blue which was entering another cave type passage.   

                       

                                                   (Beem Kund)

After spending about an hour we returnned to Dargwaon Tigadda as the family of decedents of Late Gond rular Shankarshahi was waiting for me and to visit Bheem Kund was not in our eternity. From Hirapur village we taken a left turn for Shhajadpur Tiraha and from here we have to take right turn for Anjini Belkhedi village to reach the house of the royal family. 

  (on right >Shri RajIndulshah the eldest son of Late Raja Sundarshah)          

The elder son Vikram of Raja Indulshah has become good friend of me and so I have to visit his village which was only 7km away from our   schedule route, i.e.almost on the way. We spent one hour with them and returned to Jabalpur by evening.