My Visit toThiruvananthapuram & Kanyakumari
I reached to
Centre For Development Studies, Prasanth Nagar, Ulloor, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala on 29th January 2010 at 10.45 pm from Thiruvananthpuram Air Port.
The Director, CDS had sent a Taxi to pick up me. The Taxi Driver was unable to
speak Hindi or English so, as per my habit I could not talk and inquire about
the names of the important places in the route from Air Port to CDS. This technical problem of lack of
communication created an interesting incident when I asked him in Hindi as well
as in English the name of one circle which takes a turn towards Prashant Nagar
he could not follow and thought I was asking him to take an about turn towards
Air Port and he started to take a turn. I shouted ‘where are you going?’ and
the same very moment I realized , it was due to language problem and so I given
direction to move back towards Prashant Nagar and I did not talk him till I
reached CDS.
Next Day The
Registrar CDS Shri Soman Nair arranged a car for me and a Ph.D. Scholar shri
T.K.Subramanian for my company as well as
to guide me
to important places on the way to Kanyakumari. We started from CDS at 8’o clock
in the morning and traveled through:
Prashant
Nagar-Puliyanarkotta-Kerala Institute of Medical Science (KIMS) and then
Kazhakuttam-Kanyakumari Bypass. We could not take the short cut route entering
inside the city as it was the day of Purnamasi (full moon day) 30th
January 2010, and this day happened to be an important festival day for God
Subramaniya (Kartikay -the brother of God Ganesha). On the way to
Balaramapuram, I saw numbers of ladies in white Sari were cooking Payasam
(Kheer) in an earthen pot on a traditional CUHULHA - burning firewood. They
were preparing it for offering to a local deity. On this Purnamasi people here
celebrate as a big festival. Just to avoid this crowd in the city we took
By-Pass route. Ultimately we entered NH-47 Highway from Chaka Circle. This
Circle is connected to NH-47 National Highway which runs from Salem to
Kanyakumari via, Erode,
Coimbatore, Thrissur, Kochi, Alappuzha, Kollam, Thiruvananthapuram and
Nagercoil).
On the way
to Tamil Nadu border we crossed through Nemom, Balaramapuram Neyyattinkara,
Amaravila, Parassala, Kaliakkavilai, Marathandam, Kuzhithurai,
Azhakiyamandapam, Thuckalay,and Nagercoil. Kaliakkavilai is situated at the
border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. On the way to Kanyakumari, on the right side
of the road( western side) is Kerala and you will find the signboard of the
some shops are written in Malayalam language and on the left side of the road
(eastern side) is Tamil Nadu and the signboard of some shops are written in
Tamil language. From this place to Kanyakumari is under the State of Tamil
Nadu.
Balarampuram is the place famous for handloom
products. In Thuckalay (erstwhile Padmanabhapuram) we visited the
Padmanabhapuram Palace (Though it is in Tamil Nadu the palace is maintained by
Kerala Government). This palace is full of beautiful wooden carving in unique
Kerala Architecture style. Some parts of this place have been built with a fusion
of European Architecture. From Padmanabhapuram we went to Kanyakumari. We
passed via Nagercoil, Suchindrum Kottaram, and Vivekanandapuram to reach
Kanyakumari Kanyakumari is famous for its Devi temple, number of myths is
associated with this temple. One of the stories is related to the marriage of
Devi Kanyakumari with Shiva which could not be solemnised due to the hindrance
created by INDRA. Another myth is that as the marriage could not be performed
the Goddess cursed at all the articles that had been prepared for the feast
after the marriage, as a result of the curse all these articles turned in to
rocks and different colours of sand.
In my
journey I was least bothered about food except water and maximum fruit juice.
So, without taking food we rushed towards seashore. No body was taking bath in
the sea. In Kanyakumari on western side there is Arabian see and on the eastern
side Bay of Bengal and in front of the tip endless Hind Mahasagar (Indian
Ocean). I cannot resist myself from taking bath whenever I see a river or pond
or sea. My comrade told me not to go into the sea. I said ‘do not worry I will
study up to which point I should move into it. And I did the same I put my self
in between the two narrow rocks and enjoyed powerful ripples of the sea with
the amalgamated speedy winds. After taking bath we went to Vivekananda rock by
steamer which is another adventure. The ripples of the ocean with its fast
friend naughty wind flooded me with water, as I had chosen the corner seat of
the boat. Now I had no choice except to move with the wet clothes. One set of
clothes were already wet as I took bath in the Bay of Bengal. From Vivekananda
rock you can sea the peninsula which is seen in the Map of INDIA. In
Kanyakumari I purchased sands of different colours and few traditional
handicraft items. After that we visited Kanyakumari Devi temple. Here males
have to put off their upper garments and wear white Dhoti (not compulsory)
before entering in the temple. You can buy Prasad – LADDU as it is available in
Tirupati Balaji Temple in Andhra Pardesh.
Soon the Sun
began to set. Everybody was running towards the sunset point to get a glimpse
of it. After observing the lovely view we started back to pavilion. On the way
I expressed my desire to visit Suchindram temple. Suchindram Temple located
about 12 km from Kanyakumari on the way to Nagercoil. The presiding deity is
believed to be an incarnation of BRAHMA, VISHNU and MAHESH (Shiva). Marvellous
architecture carved out of stones can be seen here. It was about 7’o clock in
the evening. I got a chance to see a special procession of Gods being carried
within the courtyard of the temple.
On 31st
January’10, I got up early in the morning and came out of the campus of CDS to
explore the surrounding area. I moved
towards tourist village. On the way, so early in the morning, a coffee
stall run by a lady, was surrounded by crowd, people were taking coffee and
biscuits before starting their daily routine. I also took a cup of lovely
coffee from her stall and then walked
towards the tourist village. I do not know when it was made a tourist spot but
now it is a dirtiest place. A lovely backwater lake but full of JAL-KUMBHI,
hardly left any space to see the water in the Lake. Boats are there but locked.
There is a lovely guesthouse with beautiful garden and surroundings but it is
victim of lack of care by the civic society/state govt.
On return to
CDS about 8’o clock in the morning, I took bath ,dressed up and took my
breakfast in the canteen with the students. Today I did not want any official
obligation and moved for the city tour on my own. I hired a Auto Riksha for
Rs.300/-. He drove me around the city, at the first instance he took me to
Padmanabha Swamy Temple. It is a huge temple of God Vishnu, the statue of
Vishnu is in the style of Sri Rangapattanam (Vishnu reclining in CHIRSAGAR).
After worshipping there I took lunch in the form of Prasada. It was a delicious
lunch of varieties of food. Here also you have to enter into the temple only
with white Dhoti. If you do not have one, the temple management provides it.
From temple we went to Kovalum Beach. I had never seen
such a beautiful scene of the sea, a pictorial view of blue colour water
touching the light brown sand of the sea coast. I had been to beaches at
Mumbai, Kolkata, Gangasagar and Mangalore but the scenic beauty of the beaches
at Thiruvanathapuram is unparallel. The foreigners were taking sunbath; I could
not resist myself from swimming on seeing the beach. As it was dangerous to
swim into the sea I had to satisfy myself by taking a dip into the sea. I hired
a steamer and paid full amount and asked my Auto driver to accompany with me as
I did not want to go alone in to the sea. About half an hour we had a good
voyage in the sea and moved two three beaches and came back. This place is
about forty Kilometer from Prasanth Nagar. The Auto driver dropped me back at
CDS about 6’o clock in the evening.
On 1st February I inquired from a lady
shopkeeper of fancy dresses just across the road out side CDS main gate, about
the shop from where I could buy primary book of Malayalam Alphabets with Hindi.
I hired a scooter and reached the one of the famous shop of abookseller in
Trivandrum. After a long conversation with him I could get the desired book.
From there I took directions from a local person regarding the bus route to go
to Shankhumugham Beach. It is also a lovely beach but it is different from
Kovalam beach. I enjoyed about an hour and saw the sun set. Here I could not
take bath as no one was along with me to look after my belongings. Here two
Malayalies met me and by chance they discussed about some social aspects and
about the view of boats which were visible with their beautiful lights far away
in the sea, which had gone for fishing. They became so much impressed with me that
they given me their mobile numbers and invited me to visit their places
whenever I visited Kerala again. On reaching CDS guest house, I asked to the
care taker of the guest house to teach actual pronunciation of the alphabets. I
learnt the alphabets within half an hour.
Next day the
2nd February’10, after the interview of the ICSSR Institutional
Doctoral Fellowship , an employee of the CDS was sitting in the canteen. I
requested him to kindly listen to whatever Malayalam alphabets I had learnt. He
came to my room, and he taught me ten minutes His name was Shareef. Around 3’o
clock in the afternoon, I came out of CDS campus and discussed with the Lady
shopkeeper of fancy dresses to let me know about the few more spots worthwhile
to visit. She advised me to go Veli Beach. I hired an Auto rickshaw and reached
Veli . Here you have to purchase an entry ticket. It has a lovely backwater
lake (it is located on the opposite side of the tourist village) and provides a
beautiful view from there. I could not purchase ticket to enjoy by steamer as I
reached a little bit late from the schedule time of 5’o clock. So, I could only
enjoy the colourful ripples and varieties of fishes in the lake. After that I
crossed the bridge and reached the sea shore of Veli. The golden colour of
water at the time of sunset and after some time after the sunset the blue
colour of the sea appeared so beautiful.
Here also
one gentle man was sitting on the chair near to me. He
asked my
introduction. He started discussion on religion and some clarification about
the structure of the Hindu Society. When he became satisfied with my
statements, he gave his introduction on his own. He was a contractor building a
wall across the sea beach and a road along with it to make more convenient for
the tourist to reach this place.
However
according to my perception it was a legitimate encroachment to vanish the
original beauty of the sea beach. By 6’o clock in the evening the guards of the
beach started whistling to vacate the beach as there is a risk of high tides in
the night during the full moon phase and the days to full moon were close by.
Now I had to look around for some mode of transport to reach guest house viz.
Auto Rickshaw, taxi . I was not aware about the bus routes and name of the
places of this city. Above all the KSRTC buses ply with name plates written in
Malayalam only. Hence it was impossible for me to read it. Here the Autowalas
behave just parallel to Delhi Autowalas. They started bargaining. They were
demanding just more than double which I paid in reaching the Veli , Rs.35/-
from the Market where I bought the book. During my conversations two young men
intervened and asked where I wanted to go. I told them. Then they told me to
come along with them in the bus and gave instructions to the conductor to drop
me at Palayam and advised me to hire an Auto from there to Prasanth Nagar to
reach CDS guest house. On the way they got down as they were going to
Shanghumugham beach which is towards Airport. By chance both were research
scholars of JNU. This time the Autowala was very cunning and they have very
strong union. He charged me some extra amount and also taken a long route. I
had an argument but one local gentleman advised me to pay whatever he was
asking.
I had to
leave Thiruvananthapuram early in the morning on 4th February’10 by
Air India. So, I had one more vacant day the 3rd February’10. The
Director, CDS had asked to the Registrar to arrange
sight seeing
within the City. After taking my break fast, Mr. Soman Nair, the Registrar of
CDS shown the water Harvesting Plant in the campus. They store rainwater for
entire one year. {I was so impressed with their planning that I put up the note
to the ICSSR on my returning to Delhi and requested to consider the project
economically as well as to utilise natural rainy water. And more interestingly
it has been accepted as a policy matter.} After that he sent a Driver to pick
me up and to take me to the zoo and museum. Both were really beautiful and
natural as well with well drafted lawns. I did some photography. From there I
came on my own to CDS in the after noon. In the evening I received a phone call
from Mr.Soman Nair as he wanted to take me to Veli Beach for boating in the
Backwater Lake as well to enjoy the Veli Beach which has its own beauty. I was
crazy and I did not turn the offer though I had already visited Veli the
previous day. I set off as I had missed boating in the backwater lake. Around
4’o clock we started for the beach by car. He started taking about the beach
moving towards it and in between I also described about it. Then he asked ‘have
you ever come earlier? I started laughing and said ‘ yes, just yesterday but I
could not go for boating as I reached there after 5,o clock in the evening. We
did boating for half an hour along with other tourist. After that we moved
towards the beach. On the way we saw a ball like coconut fruit but the skin of
the fruit had vanished on returning from the sea. Mr Soman Nair told me how it
was lying on the sand. I picked it up and thought that it would make a
decorative piece in the memory of my visit to Veli beach. {on returning to
Delhi, one day I made a head of a beautiful tribal woman with the help of
fevicol and orange sand and eyes with the KAURIs and black sand collected from
Kanyakumari beach. It is kept in my drawing room over a cup giving the shape of
the rest of the body, which I purchased from Beijing in 2002.}.I mentioned
about the contractor with whom I met yesterday and told about the development
to be completed by him in due course of time. On returning from Veli to CDS
about 7’o clock, Mr.Soman Nair asked me to be ready within half an hour as he
wanted to pick up me for his residence for a cup of tea and after that for
dinner out side. I do not remember the name of that beautiful Hotel. Lots of
crowd was there but environment was peaceful and calm, lovely arrangement and
at very reasonable price. Here I enjoyed almost all the south Indian typical
dishes which are generally not available at Delhi. It was a lovely night.
On 4th
morning a Taxi from CDS dropped me at Thiruvanathapuram Air port by 5’o clock
from where I had to pick up plane for New Delhi.
Vijay Nath
Sondhi
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